Category Archives: Homestead

Fencing

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One of our “fences”

Before we bought this property, three years ago, it had been sorely neglected and abused.  There were piles and piles of old construction waste piled all around the house and down in the pastures, old dilapidated sheds and the fencing was an array of hodge-podge materials and poor patching. Over the last three summers we have been steadily cleaning things up, making a dent in the garbage, hauling it off or organizing it to be re-purposed. Its a daunting job and we still have years of work ahead of us and about a zillion trips to the dump.
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IMG_6159In preparation for adding a small herd of goats to the farm this spring we had to replace some of the worse fencing along the property line. It is something we had been planning for the last three years, but fencing is a lot of work and can be rather expensive, however keeping goats where they need to be required that we finally get to that fence.
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This Saturday was fencing day, my brother came to lend us a hand.  As you can see he was a lot of help…. The men watched on as our fourteen year old daughter dug all the fence posts.  We are teaching them to work, right?
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After my little sassy pants daughter got all the holes dug and the fence posts in (yes she actually did all that, with supervision from her father, and they were actually building a shed for the goats so they weren’t slacking as much as it looks in the pictures) the men ran wire and stretched it tight, wiring it in place. The goat pen is ready for those little babies in a few weeks.

The difference is amazing, it makes me excited for when we get all the fencing cleaned up and replaced.

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Soil Types

soilSoil is defined as the top layer of Earth that allows the growth of plants.  All areas have a different soil horizon, and that profile will change over time, and can contain all of the different types of soil discussed in this article.  You can find out what your soil horizon is by digging a hole in the ground and then observer the cross sections in that hole.

Permaculture is not about changing one type of soil to another type of soil, but is about creating a top layer of soil, in your soil horizon, that plants will thrive in without having to change the underlying soil profile.  BUT, it is very important to know what the soil type is that you are building your permaculture soil on.  The underlying soil type will effect the temperature, water drainage, water retention, and the depth of your plants roots.  Typing your soil can be very complicated.  You will hear people classify soil by color, weight, and other measurements.  I hope that this article helps in clarifying some of the different types of soil, and terminology used.  Over time as you build your permaculture top layer, the underlying soil horizon will change.  It will take years, but eventually the changes  you make on the top layer will percolate down to the lower layers of the soil horizon.  That is a great side effect of doing permaculture gardening, but it is not the ultimate goal.

According to the Unified Soil Classification system (USCS) there are 5 different types of soils.  They include Gravel, Sand, Silt, Clay and Organic.  But I would like to add an additional type, and that is of Peat.  There are different grades of those types (poorly graded, well-graded, high plasticity, and low plasticity), but I will leave that for another post.

 

GRAVEL

Gravel is composed of rock fragments.  These fragments can be in a lot of different sizes.  It is pretty easy to identify gravel.  There is really not a good test to verify it is gravel besides the look and texture.  Because gravel has an inferior ability to retain moisture, nutrients, plant life in gravel soil is more sparse.  One advantage to a gravel soil is that it does have a very high water drainage rate, so it can be good for plants that need a dryer root system.  But it also does not retain nutrients.

 

SAND

Sand is more granular than gravel is, and is comprised of finely divided rock particles.  It is finer than gravel, but is coarser than silt.  Water drains rapidly, and also does not store nutrients for plants very efficiently.  The nutrients are carried away usually to quickly for plants to be able to use them.  You can test to see if your soil is sand by picking some slightly wet sand up.  If you try to create a ball with it, it will not form one, will leave particles on your hands, and crumbles easily in your fingers.

 

SILT

Silt is finer than sand, but not as fine as clay.  Silt is fine enough that it may also be found in suspension in bodies of water.  Silt is usually what makes rivers, and lakes have a dirty look to them.  When silt is wet, it will have a slippery feel, but when it dries, it will have a floury feel.  Silt drains poorly, and is usually cooler than sand.

 

CLAY

Clay has the smallest particles.  Clay can be easily molded in your fingers when wet, but when it dries, it becomes hard or brittle.  If clay is wet, it forms into balls easily if rolled in your fingers, and feels sticky.  Clay soil is cold, and takes time to warm, because it does hold moisture well.  Clay also stores nutrients well.  The downside is that when clay becomes dry, it becomes very hard and plants have a hard time growing in dry clay.

 

ORGANIC

Organic soil is soil that is primarily made up of matter composed of organic compounds.   It usually contains the remains of plans, animals, and their waste products.  Organic soil is usually created by the organic matter being broken down by bacterial or fungal action.  Soil holds water, and nutrients, giving plants the capacity for growth.

 

PEAT

Some people classify peat with organic soil, but I feel it is in a class all of its own, because of how unique it is in its formation.  It only forms in peatlands, bogs, and mires.  Peat if rolled will not form a ball.  It is spongy to touch and will release water if squeezed.  Peat can be added to the other types of soil to increase its ability to retain water and nutrients.

So, which soil is the best?

The answer to this question is all of them in a mix.  When you have some of all of the soil types mixed, you get what is called Loam.  usually the composition is 40%-40%-20% (sand-silt-clay).  The best type of soil to plant in is loam with the inclusion of organic matter.  This way you get the best combination of draining, nutrients and moisture.  But because it is almost impossible to create loam, permaculture may be the answer.  It is impractical to create loam on a large scale in most environments.  Loam is ideal for starting plants that then can be moved to your permaculture garden.

Loam is considered ideal for gardening and agricultural uses because it retains nutrients well and retains water while still allowing excess water to drain away. A soil dominated by one or two of the three particle size groups can behave like loam if it has a strong granular structure, promoted by a high content of organic matter. However, a soil that meets the textural definition of loam can lose its characteristic desirable qualities when it is compacted, depleted of organic matter, or has clay dispersed throughout its fine-earth fraction.

Loam is found in a majority of successful farms in regions around the world known for their fertile land.  Loam soil feels soft and crumbly and is easy to work over a wide range of moisture conditions. [Source]

Besides doing the ball test, as motioned in the different soil types, you can do jar test.  The jar test is explained at the end of this document: Soil Types and Testing.  It will help you find where your soil fits, if it is sandy, clay, or loam soil.

Below is a video that explains loam a little better, with details on how to mix it.

 

Other Factors

Soil color can also tell you a lot about the soil, dark soils have high organic matter, aeration, available nitrogen, fertility, and a low erosion factor.  Moderately dark soils have medium organic matter, erosion factor, aeration, available nitrogen and fertility.  Light soils have low organic matter, aeration, available nitrogen, fertility and a high erosion factor. [Source]

Soil Temperature also has a lot to do with growing plants, and the type of soil you have under your permaculture can effect that as well.  For the fastest growth, you want to try to keep your soil temperature at 65-70 degrees F.  Above or 85 degrees and below 40 degrees you have no growth, and little to no bacteria or fungi activity.

References:

The Little Sisters

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The little sisters have finally graduted to a larger yard.  The chicken tractor had become too small for them and they needed to be able to stretch their legs and wings, but they are still too small to be with the older ladies.
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While our chickens free range 99% of the time, they do have a yard that we can pen them up in if we need to.  For example, sometimes they decided that it would be fun to lay eggs in other places and go broody on me, when that happens they will be locked up in their yard for a couple days while they remember what the nest boxes are for.  The chicken yard is divided in half with a little coop at one end, that way was can isolate a chicken if needed or keep groups seprate.
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The little sisters are in this area.  I don’t love that they are there, the ground is very bare and has been picked clean so they aren’t getting green food right now and I like my chickens to be free to eat green food and bugs, its healthier for them, but for now this is what they have.
IMG_6073In a week or so I will introduce them to their older sisters during the day and they enjoy free ranging over the meadows and fields, doing what chickens do best.

Planting Trees

In high desert valleys there are very few natural, native trees, the land is mostly grass and sage brush.  When you get to the foothills of the mountains the flora and fauna start to change a bit and the vast prairies of sage brush turn into large juniper forests. Quail Run Farm sits on the very edge of this transition, our property is mostly sage brush with three very treasured native juniper trees, just across the road the forest explodes with thousands of beautiful trees. We have often wished that there were more native trees on the farm, especially in our wild places. Dadzoo researched our local native junipers and found that they are truly one of a kind and that this specific variety of juniper only grows in the foothills around the farm, knowing how unique our trees our we felt like we couldn’t bring in imposter junipers, we needed the exact natives.  I contemplated taking cuttings from the Mother Tree and Greenman, its fairly tedious, but I was willing.  One evening we were at a neighborhood meeting (haha, neighborhood, meaning 5 families) and mentioned we were going to try to propagate the junipers and our neighbors invited us to come and hunt for baby trees on their property to transplant onto ours.

We live by some of the most generous people I’ve ever known.

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One nice spring evening we took a few of the kids and walked up the mountain side and hunted for baby trees.  The baby trees are there, but not in abundance, juniper trees take a long time to grow, they are old and wise, they can easily grow for up to 1,000 years and are slow to reproduce.
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We were able to find several and took only four we didn’t want to deprive the old forest of all its babies, but assured the wise old mothers that their children were going to be in good hands and well loved in our Shay.
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All the Little Green Things

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The cabbage are growing green and robust, in another week they will start going outside during the day and an occasional mild night.  I am planning on having them out in the garden in the next three week.  Their secondary leaves are coming and soon they will start to curve inward, the first makings of a cabbage head.
IMG_5960 IMG_5961 The tomatoes are also getting their secondary leaves, I am happy with their progress.  The biggest trick with starting seedling in doors is making sure they have enough light so they don’t get “leggy” where the stem stretches long and thin, trying to reach enough light. It makes the plant weak.  I keep the tomatoes under grow lights, the light hangs about an inch away from the seedlings, to prevent stretching.  Within the next week I will set them out side in the full sun during the days and that too will help prevent stretching.  The tomatoes have to be babied a little bit longer, they are a tender plant and can’t take any freezing.  They will be safe in the garden about mid-May and I will wait until the first of May to start hardening them off, depending on night time temperatures.
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The Not So Common Mallow

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One of my little Mallow plants emerging, you can see the stems from last years plants dead and brown around the new growth. She will be a magnificent plant come summertime.

 

Every spring, when the snow has melted, finds me on the hunt for the first wild greens of the season, Dandelion is usually one of the very first wild edibles, but even before the Dandelion comes the quiet Common Mallow. She lies close to the ground with her delicate little flowers and unique leaves, she is usually called a weed and is sprayed and pulled, but she is much more.  As kids we would eat the little flower buds and call them cheesies, little did we know the whole plant was edible and how incredibly nutritious our little “cheesies” were.

The common mallow is part of the large family of Malvaceae plants that include cotton, okra and hibiscus. It is an edible plant that has been used for medicinal care as well as food. The fruits are round and have cheese-like wedges which give the common mallow its nickname, cheese plant. Mallow stems are flexible and come from a central point, often lounging on the ground. This wild edible is used as herbal medicine in a variety of ways. It is an anti-inflammatory, diuretic, demulcent, emollient, laxative and an expectorant.

Distinguishing Features: Common mallow is a winter or summer annual or biennial, freely branching at the base, with a prostrate growth habit. It is a low growing weed, with a deep fleshy tap root. The seeds germinate through the summer and broken stems can also root. This plant has stems that originate from a deep tap root and are low spreading with branches that reach from a few centimeters to almost 60 centimeters long.

Flowers: The flowers are borne either singly or in clusters in the leaf axils blooming from June to late autumn. They have 5 petals and are white, pinkish or lilac flowers that measure on average, 1 to 1.5 cm across.

Leaves: Common mallow leaves are alternate, on long petioles, circular to kidney-shaped, toothed and shallowly 5-9 lobed, 2-6 cm wide. Short hairs present on upper and lower leaf surfaces, margins and petioles.

Height: This plant can grow anywhere from 10 to 60 cm in length.

Habitat: The common mallow likes to grow in lawns, gardens, roadsides, waste areas and cropland. It originated in Europe, Asia, and Northern Africa and is also in the Americas and Australia.

Edible parts: All parts of this plant are edible. The leaves can be added to a salad, the fruit can be a substitute for capers and the flowers can be tossed into a salad. When cooked, the leaves create a mucus very similar to okra and can be used as a thickener to soups and stews. The flavor of the leaves is mild. Dried leaves can be used for tea. Mallow roots release a thick mucus when boiled in water. The thick liquid that is created can be beaten to make a meringue-like substitute for egg whites. Common mallow leaves are rich in vitamins A and C as well as calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron and selenium.

Similar plants: Marshmallow.

http://www.ediblewildfood.com/mallow.aspx

I have never used Mallow medicinally, but this year I will, I have a large patch in my garden area and her little leaves are calling to me, I feel like there is a treasure waiting to be discovered in my little Mallow.

Mallow’s repute as a ‘cure-all’ medicine in the earlier times was owing to the fact that the herb, particularly its roots, encloses substantial quantity of mucilage (a glue-like substance secreted by some plants that are rich in protein and carbohydrates). Owing to the high presence of this jelly-like substance in mallow, rural herbal practitioners recommended the herb to heal digestive and urinary tract swellings and irritations (inflammations). However, mallow is more popular for its therapeutic qualities of relieving the mucous membranes lining the upper respiratory system, particularly when suffering from colds. In addition, the mucilage present in mallow also has the ability to control coughs set off by irritation or inflammation. Mallow is popular even today and is beneficial in healing several other ailments. For example, American Indians as well as modern herbal practitioners recommend using poultices (moist substances applied to injuries) prepared from the herb or its derivatives to alleviate pain or soreness from insect stings as well as swellings in the body.

http://www.herbs2000.com/herbs/herbs_mallow.htm

I am a voracious user of medicinal herbs, I have dozens sitting on my pantry shelves, and I make and drink herbal infusions (and make my family) daily.  It is exciting to me to find an herb, such as this, growing not only in my garden, but in abundance.  I take it as a sign, that she is to be harvested, used and loved.

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Discarded Trees

When we moved to Quail Run Farm, we inherited a lot of problems as well as a lot of awesome opportunities.  One of those problems included the large amounts of trash, and random stuff left over the property and in the basement.  When we moved in, we had a 40 yard dumpster delivered and were able to fill it just from the trash in the basement and some of the trash around the yard.  And there is still a lot more to clean up.  One of the big problems we had were a bunch of trees that the previous owner had dumped on the property.  These trees are huge.  The diameter of a couple of them is over four feet.  So the question was raised what do we do with these huge trees? (you can see the kestrel box in the background)

IMG_5905IMG_5907We also burn wood for heat during the winter.  I had harvested all of the wood that I could with the equipment I had.  So we asked our wood guy (we buy our winter wood from him) if he would be willing to process the trees for us.  Well, he said yes, we came up with a price and the work started.

IMG_5906 IMG_5910 IMG_5912With the help of his numerous different sized chain saws and his hydraulic wood splitter.  John and Tommy were able to convert all of those trees to 12+ cords of wood.  We still have probably 5 cords more of trees to process. The wood will be great for us over the next couple of winters, and the cost to have them process it was more than half the cost to have them haul in wood for the winter.

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You can see the trees we still need to process in the right side of this picture.  That one big piece, that is sticking up, that is still unprocessed is a burl.  If it had not cracked, it would be worth close to 10K. But since it is cracked, it will be turned into BTUs instead of coffee tables.IMG_5918

Now we have to move it, stack it, and then protect it for the winter.  But when the cold months hit, and we have heat from these logs, we will be glad that we had trees that we could process and turn into BTUs.

Peas Please

This past weekend we were able to get the first seeds of the season in the ground.  As always the inaugural vegetable is our little lady The Pea. She is a fabulous little addition to the garden, her seeds can be planted very early and then they wait patiently for the right moment to germinate and send their crinkly green leaves into the early spring sunshine. She is happy to spread her roots in areas that aren’t the most fertile, creating green beauty, leaving more that she takes. Peas are a legume, they take nitrogen from the air and fix it into the soil, preparing the way for other, more delicate plants to make their home. Peas a great for crop rotation, they will travel the garden through the years making the ground better because of their presence.   IMG_5887 Because of the size of her seeds she is very easy for little fingers to sow. There is much excitement when the first blossoms and peas pods appear on her bushes, for the children know they had a part in their creation.  IMG_5882In the warmer days of May, when the summer heat starts flirting on the backs of our necks, we will be out picking our peas, giving thanks for the bounty and sharing it with others.

Making Home

When we bought the farm three years ago I had grand plans for the house, it was built in the early 2000’s and had been unkempt and unloved for many years, she looked a bit dated and shabby (along with other issues, but that’s another post). Of course life gets in the way and our little house got put on the back burner, but that’s looking like it is going to change some.

One of my favorite rooms in the house is the dining room. It has these huge windows that look to the north and west, beautiful views of the whole valley. For the last while we had a simple shade on the west widow to keep the setting sun out of our eyes during dinner, but nothing else.  The windows are quite drafty and after this winter I decided that we could wait no longer and had to get some sort of window covering that could be closed in the winter to help keep the cold out and heat in.IMG_5831

I love this view, it needed a beautiful frame!

I love this view, it needed a beautiful frame!

So after much searching I finally settled on a look I love.  I have always liked sheers and long floor to ceiling cutains, so for beauty I went with a long sheers under and on top a thick cotton that drapes beautifully and will help with the draft in the winter.  I think it is a lovely effect, and my favorite room just became even more dear to me.  As I finished up everything and set out a nice center piece on the table (something I always had before we moved here, but never here) Dadzoo commented that he liked that I was making the place pretty, it made it feel more like home.

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